Shimanami Kaido: A Bike Ride Across the Sea

The Shimanami Kaido is quite literally, a bicycle ride over the sea. Between the main island of Japan and the smallest major island in Japan, Shikoku, is the Seto Inland Sea. The ride goes from Imabari in Shikoku, to Onomichi in Honshu.

Along the route are several small islands linked together by enormous suspension bridges. The ride is 42 miles, but with our many detours along the way, we rode 60 miles in 3 days.

As opposed to a guide or an in-depth review, this article will serve as a brief overview of what the Shimanami Kaido is all about.

The Shimanami Kaido rests in a sleepy part of Japan. In fact, Shikoku has the lowest population density in all of Japan. This adds to both the allure of the trip, and the safety.

A large portion of the route is on bicycle only roads. Even the parts on main roads do not feel unsafe as there are few cars and many sidewalks. Every suspension bridge crossing has bicycle only lanes on the side of, or beneath the bridge.

The remoteness of this adventure adds a special magic that can only be found off the beaten path. The majority of people we saw and interacted with were locals. Nowhere else in Japan was I greeted with such big, authentic smiles, and gifts!

HOW TO GET TO THE STARTING POINT

Despite its remoteness, it’s easy to get to the Shimanami Kaido. From Tokyo, it is only a 90 minute flight down to Matsuyama. From Matsuyama airport, you have public transportation options as fast as 60 minutes to Imabari station. The bicycle rental shop is located immediately next to Imabari station, a mere 30 second walk.

Alternatively, if you are in the Osaka / Kyoto area, you are looking at about 2 hours on the bullet train (Shinkansen) to get to Onomichi.

SUPPORT FOR CYCLISTS

The infrastructure for this epic adventure is excellent. They make it very easy to get started and feel comfortable that you have all the resources you need to safely make it from beginning to end. Let’s look at some of the highlights.

• There is a wide selection of bicycles and helmets with suitable sizes for tall individuals and those with large heads
• The route is clearly and consistently marked
• There are 8 stations along the way where you can switch out your bicycle if you encounter mechanical issues
• There is a baggage transfer service so you don’t have to carry your cumbersome belongings with you
• There are plenty of accommodations along the way that provide the same level of service you’d expect anywhere else in Japan
• There are plenty of konbinis (convenience stores), restaurants, and vending machines to keep you fueled throughout the day

EVALUATING THE PHYSICAL CHALLENGE

With how much you can customize your route and schedule, the physical challenge can be whatever you’d like it to be. All of the ascents to the bridges have their own pathways specifically designed for bicycles. This means there is nowhere on the main path that has a significantly challenging slope.

There are people who do the entire route in one day, so I think most people can do it comfortably over 3 days with little to no training. That being said, you are sure to enjoy yourself more if you put in some work beforehand.

THE BIGGEST OBSTACLE YIELDS THE BIGGEST REWARDS

If you’re up for a challenge, you can stop at the Kirosan Observatory along the way. Located just off the main route on the island of Oshima, this is the most difficult obstacle on the Shimanami Kaido. The grade along the ascending road goes as high as 9%. Unless you are an experienced cyclist, you will have to get off and push like we did.

Waiting for you at the top is a local specialty, salt ice cream! It sounds odd, but I can promise you it is delicious. Additionally, the view from the top makes the hard slog to the top well worth it! Pictured below is the longest suspension bridge along the route, and the first that you traverse if you start in Imabari like we did.

FINAL THOUGHTS

I cannot recommend the Shimanami Kaido highly enough. It is the most spectacular thing I’ve done in Japan, and one of the coolest things I’ve done in my life. Plus, the extra calories burned by cycling means you can eat that much more Japanese cuisine. If you want to add some adventure to your Japan trip, do the Shimanami Kaido.