The Nakasendo Way: An Underappreciated Excursion into Edo Era Japan

Get a glimpse into Japan’s Edo Era with the Nakasendo Way. The Nakasendo is a 700 year old path connecting the former capital of Japan, Kyoto, and the current, Tokyo.

The totality of the route is over 300 miles, but you can break it down into a 1-3 day trip to capture the highlights and magic of the route.

THE NAKASENDO EXPERIENCE

On the Nakasendo, you’ll spend half your day walking through the valleys of the beautiful Japanese mountains, and the other half exploring well preserved towns that dot the path.

This makes the Nakasendo more of a walk than a hike. Unlike the Shimanami Kaido (internal link) or Kumano Kodo, no physical training is required.

Adventurous eaters will be interested to hear that there are restaurants along the route that serve horse sashimi.

AUTHENTIC ACCOMMODATIONS

The accommodations along the Nakasendo Way are a large part of its appeal. Options consist of Minshuku (Japanese guest house) and Ryokan (upscale, traditional Japanese inn).

When traveling across the world to experience a new culture, you do yourself a disservice by staying in western style accommodations. Do yourself a favor and experience a Minshuku, Ryokan, or at least a business hotel.

MINSHUKU KOSHINZUKA

We stayed in Minshuku Koshinzuka, just outside of Tsumago. Our host was both charming and accommodating. During dinner, he sang songs and told us about the history of his family and the area. This turned what would have been just a futon to sleep on, into a genuine highlight of the trip.

I would not trade my night at Minshuku Koshinzuka for a night at the nicest 5 star hotel in Japan.

HOW THE NAKASENDO FITS INTO YOUR JAPAN TRIP

The typical Japan vacation itinerary is 2 weeks spread across Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto. If you’re interested in mixing things up, I recommend skipping Kyoto and replacing it with the Nakasendo Way or Shimanami Kaido (internal link).

In my opinion, the food is better in Osaka, and the atmosphere is better in Tokyo. Shrines, culture and history are abundant in Japan, so trading Kyoto for a unique adventure is something you won’t regret.

LOGISTICS AND FEASIBILITY

One of the reasons the typical Japan itinerary is so popular is because it’s simple to book and easy to manage. So, how does the Nakasendo compare?

In short, it’s more work, but not as much as you’d think.

BOOKING ACCOMMODATIONS

• Lodging is limited, but booking far out (6 months or more is best) solves this issue
• Some accommodations require you to book via email instead of online. The language barrier can make this harder than it needs to be

TRANSPORTATION

• Despite not having a large city nearby, there are plenty of public transport options to get to/from the Nakasendo
• Google Maps makes navigating public transport in Japan a breeze

NAVIGATING THE PATH

• The path is well marked, so finding your way is easy. Detours are also well marked and most signs have English on them

LUGGAGE CONSIDERATIONS

• Luggage forwarding services operate like clockwork in Japan, and are available along the most popular part of the Nakasendo way (the Magome and Tsumago sections)

BEWARE BEARS

Encounters are rare, but there are bears in this part of Japan. The local government does a good job of putting up notices if there is a recent sighting. There are many “bear bells” along the way which you are encouraged to ring loudly to help keep them out of the area.

FINAL THOUGHTS

The Nakasendo way is a great way to break the mold of the typical Japan itinerary. It’s easy to get to and provides an experience you won’t find in the big cities.

If you like the idea of mixing up your Japan trip, check out our article on the Shimanami Kaido for a more adventurous option.